Originally Answered: Dog Training?
First, kudos to you. The sign of a good and responsible owner is one who takes time to research, consider other options instead of just assuming "my way is the right way" or "I don't have anything to learn about this dog-raising stuff."
Second, here's the single most important thing to remember about animal training and dogs in particular: you can train them to do almost anything using classical behavioral approaches and operant conditioning. Dogs as a species seek approval from us--they WANT to make us happy. That is why it's so much easier to train dogs than cats,. Those positive training methods are so effective with dogs.
Now specifically to your questions...
I'm not wild about the ideas of shaking a can of coins or rocks, or spritzing a dog with a water bottle. There are a couple of reasons why:
1. It's easier to train a dog to do something than it is to train them to NOT do something. For instance, it's easier to train the dog to pee on command and to use a specific spot outdoors than it is to train a dog that every place inside is forbidden. It's easier to train a dog to go into a quiet down-stay when someone arrives at the house than it is to train them to not bark.
The whole principle of using adverse cues like a can of coins or a water bottle is based on several assumptions:
--the dog will associate doing the bad behavior with the bad sound or response (the squirt of water for instance) and seek to avoid it.
--the dog will be distracted by the sound.
Now the distraction can be done by anything (just yell the dog's name real loudly when they start to raise a leg). As for the association, the problem with that theory is that dogs are bad at generalizing behavior (which is why you can have a dynamite recall in your backyard but a terrible one in the backyard right next to your's). So when you shake the can, the dog might be concluding:
--it's bad to let my human see me take a dump, I need to do it in private...or
--my human's in a bad mood
--my human wants me to pee quicker
--my human thinks I should have peed closer to the window
--my human is unpredictable and should be avoided
In short, a water bottle or can of coins or some other distractor isa mediocre training devise. People keep looking for short cuts and I'm sure you'll get some posts here from people who say that it worked for them. But paper training is based upon a lot of time, patience and consistency but in the end you've got a dog that is reliable when you don't have the can, when you're in a hotel or friend's house, around other dogs or when you're not there. Because you taught the dog what you want them to do, rather than what is wrong. Remember, teaching a dog what not to do is incredibly hard (and that is what the water bottle/can approach attempts to do) but teaching them the right habit is actually pretty easy--dogs are big into habits.
Here are a couple of house-training hints:
--never use papers or pads: you're teaching the dog that peeing in the house is okay and dogs have trouble generalizing that a pad isn't a carpet.
--clean up with Nature's Miracle. If the scent of urine is still there your puppy goes "wow, how thoughtful, my human left me a sign of the correct spot to pee--some other dog was here before me and used the exact same spot."
--put your pooch on a leash shen in the house until 6 months old. Put the leash around your belt. Your puppy is either attached to your belt or in the crate when in the house. Every time you see a leg start to go up or the traditional crouch you yell "HEY!" and startle them then rush outside.
--schedules mean a lot to puppies. Try and keep it regular which makes it easier to hold.
--Here's a suggested schedule for a puppy. Up in the morning, before coffee or paper, puppy goes outside. In AM, puppy gets food and water and within 2 minutes you go outside. When puppy pees, you act like you just discovered gold. Praise, pet and then treat the puppy. After a few times, associate the behavior with a command ("Do it" or "Mark it" or "Go Poop" or whatever).
--Take a morning walk (another opportunity to pee).
--If puppy goes into the crate because you work or have errands, first think you do is take puppy outside.
--Puppy gets another walk (and pee opportunity).
--Puppy gets second meal around 5pm or 6pm and within 2 minutes you're outside.
--No food or water past 7pm.
--Puppy gets a trip outside just before you go to bed (say, 11pm or 11:30pm).
None of this assumes other playtime, walks, doggie playdates that are also other opportunities to pee.