Is once a week enough for training in muay thai?

Is once a week enough for training in muay thai? Topic: Is once a week enough for training in muay thai?
June 24, 2019 / By Sky
Question: I want to do muay thai, but my parents work a lot so I probably won't be able to go more than once a week. Is this enough to be able to thoroughly learn it? I've never taken a martial art before, but I am pretty fit. I would exercise and run on my own during the week days and stuff to keep fit, and maybe buy some punching bags and the stuff to be able to train at home with it, but I just want to know if it is enough. Thanks!
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Best Answer

Best Answers: Is once a week enough for training in muay thai?

Piety Piety | 5 days ago
One is WAY better than none. Ask your instructor on practices that you can do at home. Drills, footwork, forms. This will also help you learn as a student during class as you will have done your homework for their class.
👍 278 | 👎 5
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Piety Originally Answered: What martial art should I choose, Aikido, Judo, Taekwando, Karate, Wing Chun, Muay Thai or Silat?
When you decide to begin training in martial art you have some questions you have to answer for yourself. Are you looking for a sport to play, an art to dedicate a lifetime to, or a quick fix method of self defence? Some combination of that perhaps? Most of us are, or were all three at times. Where do your priorities lie? You must first decide martial art , or fighting sport. The two are worlds apart, although they overlap in several areas, their mindset, and intent are opposite. You have to know also what is available to you. If you have Uechi-Ryu, and Bak Mei in your area, wanting to do TKD would not help you. Of the available options you must decide which one(s) interest you. Then you have to decide (take your time, it's important) which available instruction is the one for you. You can change or quit if you don't like it, but better to stay with the program right through (providing the program is a good one) for the best training. Style-hopping has in my experience cost many a martial artist their potential, so choose wisely, nobody here can tell you what to do for you. So do your homework well. Talk to instructors and students, watch classes, take 'free introductory' classes, make your decision. One more thing, good luck

Marylyn Marylyn
I've been in Muay thai 4+ times a week for almost the past year and I've gotta say, one time is better than none, but you really need at least 3 times a week. If nothing else, it's for the bone conditioning. You know that leg kicks (using the shin though, not the foot) and the use of elbows are the main factors that make Muay Thai so brutal and effective. I don't know how much you know about bone conditioning (bone training), but the basic principle is to apply lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of strikes against something very hard but still has some give, like a block of wood. This creates micro fractures in the bone which calcify over through the body's healing process. This layering of calcium on your bones keeps you from injury and when combined with proper technique, speed and power, delivers some of the most painful strikes I've ever experienced. I do bone training everyday, just old-schooled it like the Thai Boxers and took a 2 ft. piece of metal pipe, i think it's like a 2 inch pipe? Took some athletic tape and covered it with about 30 layers of that and voila, you've got the cheapest and one of the most effective training tools for a fighter! haha... At any rate, combing this with a heavy bag should help you out a lot, if you can only go once a week, really focus when you're there and ask a lot of questions so you get a solid foundation on which you can build on your own throughout the week. Since there is so much stuff on the internet now I'm sure you can find some decent youtube videos and whatnot to supplement what you learn in class (but don't solely rely on it). Good luck! Head down, guard up, elbows in!
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Laraine Laraine
You certainly won't become the best MArtist you can be, but like other people said, it's better than nothing. Just going will get you thinking about the moves and will build your confidence. It might also eventually help you against an untrained aggressor, that depends on how much you'll actually pick up (it depends on you). Also, going once a week will certainly lead to more. When you discover how much you enjoy MA, you will certainly find more time/money to go more often. Happy training.
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Jerrie Jerrie
For a beginner once a week would not be enough. . . you need to practice correct techniques and execution. Remember it would be hard to unlearn wrong moves once you train on your own without perfecting the basics The Basic foundation is the most important of your training. for the first 3 months it would be best to attend at least 3 times a week.
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Jerrie Originally Answered: Dog Training?
First, kudos to you. The sign of a good and responsible owner is one who takes time to research, consider other options instead of just assuming "my way is the right way" or "I don't have anything to learn about this dog-raising stuff." Second, here's the single most important thing to remember about animal training and dogs in particular: you can train them to do almost anything using classical behavioral approaches and operant conditioning. Dogs as a species seek approval from us--they WANT to make us happy. That is why it's so much easier to train dogs than cats,. Those positive training methods are so effective with dogs. Now specifically to your questions... I'm not wild about the ideas of shaking a can of coins or rocks, or spritzing a dog with a water bottle. There are a couple of reasons why: 1. It's easier to train a dog to do something than it is to train them to NOT do something. For instance, it's easier to train the dog to pee on command and to use a specific spot outdoors than it is to train a dog that every place inside is forbidden. It's easier to train a dog to go into a quiet down-stay when someone arrives at the house than it is to train them to not bark. The whole principle of using adverse cues like a can of coins or a water bottle is based on several assumptions: --the dog will associate doing the bad behavior with the bad sound or response (the squirt of water for instance) and seek to avoid it. --the dog will be distracted by the sound. Now the distraction can be done by anything (just yell the dog's name real loudly when they start to raise a leg). As for the association, the problem with that theory is that dogs are bad at generalizing behavior (which is why you can have a dynamite recall in your backyard but a terrible one in the backyard right next to your's). So when you shake the can, the dog might be concluding: --it's bad to let my human see me take a dump, I need to do it in private...or --my human's in a bad mood --my human wants me to pee quicker --my human thinks I should have peed closer to the window --my human is unpredictable and should be avoided In short, a water bottle or can of coins or some other distractor isa mediocre training devise. People keep looking for short cuts and I'm sure you'll get some posts here from people who say that it worked for them. But paper training is based upon a lot of time, patience and consistency but in the end you've got a dog that is reliable when you don't have the can, when you're in a hotel or friend's house, around other dogs or when you're not there. Because you taught the dog what you want them to do, rather than what is wrong. Remember, teaching a dog what not to do is incredibly hard (and that is what the water bottle/can approach attempts to do) but teaching them the right habit is actually pretty easy--dogs are big into habits. Here are a couple of house-training hints: --never use papers or pads: you're teaching the dog that peeing in the house is okay and dogs have trouble generalizing that a pad isn't a carpet. --clean up with Nature's Miracle. If the scent of urine is still there your puppy goes "wow, how thoughtful, my human left me a sign of the correct spot to pee--some other dog was here before me and used the exact same spot." --put your pooch on a leash shen in the house until 6 months old. Put the leash around your belt. Your puppy is either attached to your belt or in the crate when in the house. Every time you see a leg start to go up or the traditional crouch you yell "HEY!" and startle them then rush outside. --schedules mean a lot to puppies. Try and keep it regular which makes it easier to hold. --Here's a suggested schedule for a puppy. Up in the morning, before coffee or paper, puppy goes outside. In AM, puppy gets food and water and within 2 minutes you go outside. When puppy pees, you act like you just discovered gold. Praise, pet and then treat the puppy. After a few times, associate the behavior with a command ("Do it" or "Mark it" or "Go Poop" or whatever). --Take a morning walk (another opportunity to pee). --If puppy goes into the crate because you work or have errands, first think you do is take puppy outside. --Puppy gets another walk (and pee opportunity). --Puppy gets second meal around 5pm or 6pm and within 2 minutes you're outside. --No food or water past 7pm. --Puppy gets a trip outside just before you go to bed (say, 11pm or 11:30pm). None of this assumes other playtime, walks, doggie playdates that are also other opportunities to pee.
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